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 These Carbon Fiber PushRods are exceptionally
 light and strong products

CFR fitting test

This is a results picture of my extensive and very expensive strength testing procedure for the holding ability of the adhesive for the fittings and my PushRods. As you can see, no expense was spared.<G>
I may be joshing you, but the gluing without any drilling holes, cutting threads wrapping with carbon thread or any of the other things are really unnecessary for strength. You must take the time to make good glue joints with clean parts, but it is more than strong enough with the glue joint alone.
The top example is an old crashed 5/32" (CPR-10) PushRod with 2-56 threaded rod (CPR-35) out of a Quickie that died long ago

The piece was fastened with Epoxy. I cut the threads off and shortened the piece. I then used a hammer and a 1" piece of pine and pretended it was a nail... Went right through.
The second was one of the pieces I put together for the pictures on the site. It was fastened with Bob Smith's IC2000. The PushRod is 1/8" (CPR-05) with a 2-56 threaded rod with the threads cut off.
The third is 3/16" (CPR-15) carbon PushRod with a 4-40 threaded rod (CPR-40) with the threads inside the PushRod and the rod cut to length. It too, was fastened with Bob Smith's IC2000. (CPR-70)
Also note that the two new ones are not capped with the tubing and the side load was not a problem. As of now, I feel that the rubberized Bob Smith's IC-2000™ CA or its' equivalent is the best fastener for the metal to carbon bond. It is easy to use and easy to get inside the tube for a good glue joint. The color is also an asset. You can see if you have a good coating of adhesive on the parts before you set them aside to cure... It is also a great building product. I have been using it for everything that the color doesn't matter on. Try it you will like it. Keep the kicker handy. It does not cure as fast as we are used to with the other Ca's

Darrol Cady


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