Stop Guessing! This is the easiest method and accurate tool to be able to duplicate your engine setup. When you make a change, you will know that it will be the numbers that you want. There is no need for charts to read your engine settings. Click the link at the left below for detailed instructions on engine setup.                               Click here to see how to use the Digital Measuring Tool to Set Up Your Racing Engine
------ Bearing Installation ------- ------ Racing Engine Bearing Tool ------
Front Bearing Installation After removing the bearings, set the crank on the short piece and use the longer pieceto seat the rear bearing on the crank. Picture to right. Then, while the case is still warm from removing the bearings from the case, slip the crank with the new rear bearing installed in the case. Slip the short piece into the back of the case and line up the crank pin in the hole in the short piece. Slip the front bearing on the shaft and use the other end of the long piece to push the front bearing in place. Tap the front bearing in with a soft mallet. Not hard, just enough to make sure that both bearings are completely seated in the case.Picture above. When you finish putting it together, you will have just a little end play in the crank." Darrol Bearing Tool QKE-24		"DCRC Bearing Installation Tool" I have been using this tool for the last 7 years. Everyone that has seen me use it wanted one like it. I finally found someone to make them for me. One of the neatest features of this assembly tool is that it assembles your motor on the part that it is going to be used with, not a substitute. It makes for perfect alignment. The tool is quite simple, but very effective and efficient. First step is to remove the bearings from your engine. Place the case in the oven and set it for 275 degrees, for about 15 minutes. When it is up to temperature, remove the case from the oven and tap the backplate end of the case on a flat board. The rear bearing should drop out on the board. If it does not, use the removal tool to take it out. The front bearing can be tapped out with a dowel.              Bearing to Crankshaft
Racing Engine Torque DriverTool My racing friends, you cannot properly tighten your head bolts without a torque driver. When I check engine set ups for others, I find that most are over tightened. When your head bolts are too tight, it distorts the case and sleeve. The engines do not run as well as they could. I set my head bolts at 11 inch lbs. and it seems to be perfect. The heads on our racing engines with the Nelson plugs are very critical to not over tighten. If you add a little extra arm to make sure that it does not leak, you may have just ruined the head. What happens is that the seal on the top of the dome of the head is pushed down and it changes the shape of the double bubble head. 33 inch lbs. is tight enough for the plug not to leak or come out. Yet, it does not destroy the heads. Since I have been using a torque driver to tighten my plugs, I have not distorted a head from putting too much arm on it. I also have not had a plug come loose or leak. At $35.00 per head, it does not take many to pay for your torque driver. Get one for your tool box now." QKE-20 Torque Driver/with 4-40 Allen driver
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Model Aircraft Spray Guns

Pictured is the latest model of the Iwata miniature spray gun line. Model number LPH-50. It is an exceptional tool for painting our smaller items. It does not require a large compressor, as it only uses 1.8 cubic feet per minute to spray. Being an LPHV spray gun, it produces very little over spray. The paint that you spray goes on the surface that you are painting, not in the air. Click here for Painting Tips

Iwata Miniature Spray Gun

This miniature spray gun has almost a 4" spray fan. For the kind of painting that we do on our models, that is more than enough. It also has two air adjustments on the gun. One at the base of the body is to adjust total pressure and the other adjusts the fan size. The fan adjustment is a great feature. With this, you can go from a full fan to a round spray. The round spray is the same spray as you get with an airbrush. There is also a trigger limit that controls the amount of paint and air that passes through the spray head. With all the controls that this gun has, you can do many things with it.

You can put on a base coat, then cut the size of the fan down to paint stripes. If you want to do some fading, just turn the fan off and turn the paint flow down. No need to get out the airbrush. You already have it in one miniature spray gun, the Iwata LPH-50. This is a miniature gun that could have been designed for us as modelers. It fills the bill.

This spray gun is also gravity fed. As occasional users, this has some special benefits for us. For the small projects, we can mix ½ ounce of paint and the gravity cup will use it all. It makes it perfect for using small batches of paint for the small jobs. The can holds 4 ounces and can be filled for the larger projects.

Cleaning. I do not disassemble my guns to clean them. I pour lacquer thinner in the cup to first clean the cup and the outside of the body. Then I flush and back flush the nozzle and chamber with fresh lacquer thinner. Putting your finger over the spray nozzle, while you are spraying the lacquer thinner does back flushing. I repeat the process until the lacquer thinner no longer picks up any of the color just painted. That is it… Then, I pour a couple of ounces of thinner into the cup and hang it up. It is ready for the next painting project. This may not be the recommended way of treating your spray gun, but it works. I have been using my other Iwata spray guns for about 5 years, and have had no problems with this system. They all work like they did the day that I bought them.

The retail price of the Iwata LPH-50 is: $495.00.
Our price on this fine miniature spray gun is $255.00!

W100 Spray Gun

The W100 is a detail gun. It is a small high quality spray gun, but is larger than the LPH-50. I personally have both and use them for the different purposes. The LPH-50 is fantastic for trim and smaller items, but it will also paint larger items with more time and paint. The W100 is great for larger pieces or planes, but can be turned down so that it will do a good job on smaller parts and trim colors. As a base coat gun or a clear coat gun, it cannot be beat. The W100 has a larger fan and will lay the paint on quickly and more evenly with less paint.

The ideal is to have both guns. But if you only have one, choose the one that will meet most of your needs. Either will do both jobs, but each will do better on the projects that they are sized for.

Complete listing of all our accessories

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Darrol Cady Ph: 360-903-3520	© Copyright 2007-2009 Darrol Cady All rights reserved.